Showing posts with label Kitchen. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kitchen. Show all posts

Functional Kitchen Befor and After By Candice Olson

When a celebrity stylist needed help making over his kitchen, he called Candice Olson. The divine designer transformed his space from 1980s and old to glamorous and now.

Before: Outdated and Cold

This outdated kitchen doesn't exactly say "stylist to the stars."



After: Fashionable and Functional

Enter Candice Olson who created a new kitchen that is both traditional and hip. Divine details include travertine floors, a quartz-topped island, crystal chandeliers and a stunning, silver-foil wallpaper.

Pure kitchen bliss...

I'm just gushing over these kitchens...

white subway tiles...classic but never boring...
via Lonny Mag

Wow...never seen a counter curve around the windows like that
via House Beautiful

This kitchen has classic good looks but the rug really makes it great for me...
via High Gloss Magazine

Great island with all that storage...

2 images above via Eric Roth Photography

amazing fireplace..

2 images above via Elle Decor

Another clean and classic beauty
via Adore Home Mag

So, tomorrow morning I am flying back to the states after living/working in Spain for the last 4 months, so I won't be posting -- have a great weekend!

The Dos and Dont's of Kitchen Decorating

Decorating magazines can be a great source of inspiration, but they can often overlook the basics. The problem is that basics are a big deal to the first-timer decorator. Getting your kitchen perfect is no simple process, and we can’t take anything for granted. So in order to help, we’ve assembled the most essential dos and dont's of kitchen decorating.

Do's

• Invest in a high-quality worktop. It is essential to the aesthetic and for maximizing space.

• Allow for numerous electrical sockets. You can’t have too many unless they’re eyesores.

• Separate the refrigerator from the grill, oven and similar appliances as much as possible.

• Make space for a dishwasher.

• Place base cabinets at least 21” deep.

• Place cabinets above countertops at least 30” high and 12” deep with at least 60” of frontage.

• Make your walkways 42” wide and your passageways at least 36” wide.

• Hire a professional fitter to connect the gas.

• Hire a professional electrician to handle all wiring.

• Hire a professional plumber to set up the water supply, waste disposal and drainage.

Below are some great example of kitchen Do's

via Christopher Peacock

via Kitchenisms

via Pinterest

via Schibsted Forlag

Dont's

• Overestimate cabinetry and cupboards; too much will make the kitchen seem smaller than necessary.

• Go with less than 144” of frontage for small kitchens or 186” for large kitchens (greater than 150 square feet).

• Allow for less than 15” clearance between counter and the bottom of wall cabinets; 18” is best.

• Carpet the kitchen. A kitchen floor will get wet, and it needs to be as hygienic as possible.

• Place a dishwasher farther than 36” away from a sink.

• Hang anything, including cabinets, over an oven or hob.

• Place an oven or hob directly beneath a window.

• Purchase elaborate window coverings. Simple blinds are the best choice.

• Underestimate storage needs. Any kitchen needs a combination of at least six drawers and cupboards.

• Account for less than 12” x 24” for each diner.

• Forget to place a smoke alarm and a fire extinguisher in the kitchen.

This kitchen is a major don't...

via Ugly House Photos

These are some of the major decorating tips to look out for when revamping your kitchen. Happy decorating!

*disclosure: this is a sponsored post

My kitchen reveal - check out our new paint job!

I'm so excited to share with you guys the brave feat of painting that just took place in our kitchen, which Chris and I moved into in August. I was lucky enough to have the gracious folks over at Royal Design Studio contact me to see if I'd like to do a stencil review on Decorology. Uh....yeah! I instantly knew the effect I wanted to get, which is a sheen effect.

The inspiration for the look I wanted - a gloss/matte sheen effect  came from photos I'd collected similar to the one below:
GORGEOUS!
via ?


So...here was our kitchen before...pretty standard for a 1 bedroom apartment in a building...

And...here is the kitchen after...

pretty drastic change right?

The stencil I selected was the Large Marrakesh Trellis. Chris and I took a trip to Morocco two January's ago, and the tiles and ornate plaster work will leave your jaw on the floor. The stencil reminded me of the tours we took of medersas in Fes and Marrakesh.


The stencil as featured on the Royal Design Studio site
An illustration of the stencil showing the registration marks and the scale.
The stencil also came with some instructions and stencil care information.

Once I received the stencil, and before setting off to paint - I did some research on how to achieve the look I wanted. Like most projects, prep work is key!

The Royal Design Studio site offers a lot of resources and tips for stenciling. I got the basics from their Basic Stencil Techniques page for all over stencil patterns.

I knew to achieve the look I wanted I would need the same paint color, but in different sheens.  I chose gloss and flat.  Here's where I ran into a little issue.  Once I got the stencil I realized that, if I put down the solid flat coat first, the way the stencil is cut, most of the wall would end up being gloss.  I didn't want that because I was afraid the room would be too shiny.  However, upon doing research and asking around, painting a solid base of the gloss and then painting the stencil in flat over the gloss wouldn't work either, because the matte paint would not adhere to the gloss painted wall.  Hmmm...I was stuck.

So, being the extremely stubborn woman I am, I did a little more research and came across the talented Megan Bouton, who was the genius behind this wall treatment:

Check out her gorgeous dining room here.

Just the look I wanted! So I wrote her asking what she did to get the matte paint to work over the gloss, and she was awesome enough to reply that she hadn't done anything special, and that even a year later she can't even scratch the matte off with her fingernail.

So, I decided to give it a try, and here is my process and results



First, we covered the walls in a high-gloss navy called "Royal Hyacinth" from Olympic. I hadn't painted in high-gloss before, and it sure is shiny! It also required 3 coats to get everything of uniform "glossiness." You also need to work with a nice wet roller, because if it gets too dry it will just lift up the some of the paint you just put on - which is super noticeable the glossier your paint is. We also taped off the edges with a standard blue painters tape.

Some supplies you will NEED:

• stencil spray adhesive. Don't go with a general adhesive spray - that didn't work for me.  Get a spray specifically for stencils at a craft or hobby store.  Also - wear a mask when you work with it - it's not the most lung friendly stuff.

• level.  very important for making sure you aren't taping the stencil up out of line.

• a small roller.  If you are working with glazes and/or diluted paints use a stencil brush, which the folks over at Royal Design Studio recommend.   I knew I'd never finish unless I used a roller.  I used a brush for corners and touch-ups.

• painter's tape.  Okay, I hate to diss a product, but the green tape pictured here - called Frog Tape, wasn't strong enough to hold up the stencil. I'm sure it's great for it's intended purpose, but it wasn't sticky enough for the Mylar stencil.  I ended up using the traditional blue painter's tape.

• patience.  Don't expect to finish this in the amount of time it takes to simply paint a room.  The more care you take doing research, practicing, and lining up your stencil, the more beautiful the result will be.

Optional:

• a brayer:  you can purchase at your crafts/hobby store. If helps press the stencil flat on the wall more quickly than using your fingers.

Also - I recommend practicing before you start stenciling, especially if you haven't done it before.  I just used a large piece of cardboard.

Sorry the picture is so blurry.  But whenever I moved the stencil I would line it up best I could and then check that it was level.

Once level I'd secure it with some tape so it lays flat.  The flatter your stencil, the crisper your lines will be.  Also notice how the stencil is now covered in paint?  Since I was using undiluted latex, the paint would eventually make the registration marks impossible to see.  So every now and then I'd let the paint on the stencil dry, and then I could peel it right off like a film.  No water, soap, or scrubbing required.

A close up of the result, once dried.



Since it took me so long to finish the project, since I've been so busy at work, I never got that "wow" factor because I had been looking at it for so long before it was finished.  I wish I could walk into it finished without seeing it before!


Mugs from our travels we keep in the glass cabinet.  They don't coordinate, but they remind me of the places we've been.

Aren't these acorn squash pretty? They are from my parent's farm, Chestnut Creek. (The website is designed by your's truly)

The matte paint over the gloss is surprisingly durable, though if you scrape it with something hard it does scratch, so I wouldn't recommend matte over gloss for places that see a lot of movement.  It's also not as "scrubbable" as eggshell, semi-gloss, or gloss.  Luckily we have a very large stone backsplash, and most of the cooking and what not only happens beneath the backsplash.


So, what do you think of my first stab at stenciling?  I wish the color had been a little bit darker, but I'm happy with it.   We still have a lot of work to do in the kitchen.  I'd like to add a runner, organize our pantry, and fix the crooked cabinets.  Since it's a rental, there's only so much we can alter.

Once again, many thanks go out to Royal Design Studio. Make sure you check back next week as I will be introducing a giveaway from Royal Design Studio, and I hope to reveal some of the DIYs I will be doing in the kitchen next week. I can give you a hint: it includes repurposing a piece of furniture to increase storage space, and another DIY that will allow you to gain the equivalent least an entire cabinet!

*disclosure: I received the stencil as a sample from Royal Design Studio

How To: A Kitchen Pegboard Wall Organizer

As I promised a couple of weeks ago, here is a fairly-easy DIY (and very inexpensive) that can save you at least one cabinet's worth of space. For tiny kitchens, like mine - our pan and utensil organizer is a lifesaver. It can also look good and blend into your existing kitchen aesthetic with a couple of coats of paint.


The pegboard - finished!
(I apologize for the weird look of the photos - our camera is on the fritz)

We simply didn't have enough cabinet space to hold all of our pots and pans, and our kitchen only had one very small drawer in it. We purchased a baker's cart, (our's is from Ikea), which definitely helped the situation, but we still needed more storage options if we wanted easy access and organization of our most commonly used kitchen wares. I thought pegboard would be the perfect solution (Julia Child made the idea famous), and figured above the baker's rack would be the perfect spot.

First, I wanted to see how other people had implemented a pegboard into their kitchen so I could get some tips and words of wisdom.

The below proved to be valuable resources:
• Apartment Therapy "How To: Make a Pegboard Wall Organizer"
• DIY Network "How to Install a Pegboard" (gives thorough directions on how to measure, frame, and install the board).

The Price break-down:
• Pegboard: $17.48 (We also had it cut to size - most home improvement stores provide this service
• Framing wood: Scraps leftover from a previous project
• 32 piece assorted pegboard hooks: $3.87
• Tool rack: $2.97 (See where I used it for holding measuring cups)
• Anchors: $1.98
• Screws: $1.18
• Paint: (Leftover high gloss and flat paint (I mixed them to create a finish more durable than flat, but less shiny than gloss) from when I painted the kitchen.

Also note, we did this without a drill, but it is definitely easier to use a drill than drive the screws by hand.

We started out with 2 pieces of wood to "frame" the pegboard, and a piece of white pegboard cut to the desired size. The purpose of putting the "frame" behind the pegboard is to create enough space between the wall and the pegboard to insert the various hooks. I painted the wood and the pegboard with leftover paint from when I painted the kitchen. I wanted the pegboard to blend in with the wall.


From this side angle you can see how the frame creates enough space between the wall and the pegboard.

Chris has much more patience with measuring and prep work, and is better with math, so he did the measuring to attach the frame to the pegboard. We chose to attach the frame to the pegboard, than mount it to the wall, but it might be easier to mount the frame to the wall, and then mount the pegboard to the frame.


Chris also carefully measured where to put in anchor screws so the screws in the frame would line up.

Then tighten the screws into the anchors!

Now comes the fun part - getting to arrange pots, pans, and other utensils on the pegboard!

A variety of hooks

My package of hook assortments also came with hook locks - the black piece you see over the hook, which I didn't know about, but they are great at keeping the hook from falling out when you take a pan down.

I was lucky that the bottom of our baker's cart's shelves were slatted, and our pot and pan lids fit perfectly in them!

The magnetic knife strip I actually found on the curb in someone's giveaway pile.  I simply purchased screws long enough to go through the knife strip, pegboard, height of the frame, and then into the wall - and now have easy access to my knives.



What do you think?  Would you ever consider a pegboard organizer in your kitchen?  Do you currently have one?
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